Choosing the right wine to go with crab is easy. Too bad nobody agrees on which wine.

Photo by: Randy Tunnell

Crab may be the king of edible crustaceans but it isn''t always easy to find the right wine with which to anoint him. There are so many different ways to prepare crab that viticulturally correct diners may find themselves bewildered at the many choices. Relying on personal experience is always the safest bet, but safe isn''t always exciting. Fortunately, wine experts in Monterey County have some insightful suggestions to crab eaters who like to expand their dining and wining experience.

The first thing these experts point out is that crab is a sweet, delicate meat and everyone agrees that it''s best to choose a wine that doesn''t overpower crab''s subtle taste. For that reason, most vendors, winemakers, and tasters recommended various types of white wine. But that''s about the only thing they agree upon.

When asked for recommendations, some vintners preferred sweeter wines that flatter the crab''s sweet characteristics, while others claimed that drier wines complemented the taste more successfully. The most popular recommendation was Sauvignon Blanc, with Chardonnay coming in second. While many believed red wine overpowered crab meat, the renegades who did include a red recommendation chose the lighter Pinot Noir.

Sauvignon Blanc was lauded by many for its crisp, dry, and fruity qualities. Pinot Grigio was also frequently chosen for its similar demonstration of dryness and tartness. The SB/PG contingent argues that light, dry wines such as these complement the delicate nature of the crab meat, and that Chardonnay''s creaminess interferes with the full enjoyment of crab. Food and wine matcher Jacques Melac of Rancho Cellars claimed that the slightly acidic qualities of both Sauvignon Blanc and the Pinot Grigio would successfully accompany a steamed crab dish. Ventana Vineyards suggests that the slight acidity would lessen the richness of creamier crab dishes, which in turn would lighten the tartness of the wine.

But advocates of Chardonnay seemed to disagree that the wine''s creamy texture is too heavy for crab meat. They chose the wine for its smooth, buttery taste, "...making a nice compliment where the wine doesn''t get buried by the crab and the crab doesn''t get buried by the wine," says Paraiso Springs winemaker David Fleming. The creamy, buttery taste of Chardonnay would partner well with steamed crab typically dipped in butter. Fish Hopper''s head bartender Tony Lee particularly suggests the local Mondavi Chardonnay for pasta dishes. Ag Venture Tours owner Evan Oakes recommends the Talbot Chardonnay for those who would like a higher-end wine, and the Ventana Chardonnay as a more economical choice.

If there''s such partisan disagreement about the basics, it''s not surprising that opinions diverge even further as more variables are thrown into the equation.

For instance, Rancho Cellars'' Melac recommends a Riesling, particularly for piquant dishes such as spicy chili-crab. He argues that the spiciness of the crab''s preparation and the contrasting semi-sweet flavor of the Riesling work well together. Riesling is also an economical choice, often available for as little as $10 per bottle.

And, of course, there are those entrenched wine drinkers who turn up their noses at the thought of drinking any white wine. What are they going to order when the sommelier stops at their table? The most common recommendation from wine experts in the area is Pinot Noir. "Crab has a delicate taste that the Pinot Noir would complement because it is lighter, less earthy, and less tannic [than other red wines]," says Assistant Wine Maker Linda Cooper of Lockwood vineyards.

But Cooper also demonstrated the most important rule in selecting any wine.

Before Cooper went on to recommend the more popular and reliable Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc, she confided that her personal preference is champagne. She says the yeasty characteristic of champagne goes with crab legs better than anything else.

If a dealer in wine can deviate from them all, so can the layman. When in doubt, a diner should not be afraid to pick his or her favorite wine.

At the end of the day, the individual wine consumer must decide.