And the waves rolled in, the sea lions barked, and lo! the tourists came, by car and by plane, in great multitudes did they descend upon the land. And they found eateries a'' plenty, and they pronounced it good. Very good indeed.

There are literally hundreds of restaurants in Monterey County. In the heavily touristed towns of Carmel, Monterey and Pacific Grove, the per capita ratio of restaurants to residents is outpaced only, perhaps, by the number of art galleries-but that''s another, less tasty tale. Local chefs draw upon the area''s rich bounty from sea and field-fresh calamari, tender organic lettuces, crisp asparagus, full-bodied grape wines-and pass it through the ethnic filters of the county''s 150-year history, from Monterey''s early Portuguese fishermen and the Mexican ranchers of the Salinas Valley through today''s Vietnamese and Korean immigrants of Marina and Seaside. What they''ve come up with fits every taste and pocketbook. Feel like world-class French cuisine? Cutting-edge Pacific Rim fusion? Or a corner taqueria? We''ve got it all, and we''re spoiled rotten by it.

readers'' picks

Best New Restaurant 2002

BOUCHEE RESTAURANT AND WINE BAR

Mission between Ocean and 7th, Carmel, 626-7880.

It is not easy to replace a long-standing restaurant with the kind of reputation that Rafaello''s possessed in its many years in this prime Carmel location. And then along came Bouchee. After a fairly quick revamping of the space, which now includes a small retail wine operation, David Fink''s group launched the latest and greatest of the recent openings in this area amid much anticipation and speculation. The reason is Walter Manzke, who left famed Joachim Splichal''s Patina Group in Los Angeles to ply his wares in sleepy Carmel-by-the-Sea. Well, Carmel sleeps no more. Manzke''s stunning creations have had diners lining up to sample them from Day One. Meanwhile in Pacific Grove, Robert Kincaid continues his long culinary run by opening the White House on the site of Gernot''s. It''s more of the same Kincaid magic, as longtime regulars and excited newcomers conspire to keep the White House white-hot.

Best Wine List

SARDINE FACTORY

701 Wave St., Monterey, 373-3775.

What can one say about this award? It ought to be renamed the Sardine Factory Best Wine List award. Holder of the Grand Award from the Wine Spectator since its inception, the Factory has helped set the standard to which all modern restaurant wine programs aspire. Currently under the watchful guidance of Mark Cutino, son of renowned co-owner Bert Cutino, the Sardine Factory''s wine legacy is thriving, ever growing and evolving. Wine lovers from around the world sit in quiet admiration while perusing the voluminous wine book, blood pressure fluctuating with each exciting entry. Dinner at the majestic table in the cellar is unequaled. At Marinus Restaurant at Bernardus Lodge, which took second place in this category, wine director Mark Jensen has built a world-class wine list in less time than it takes most restaurants to settle on which glassware to use.

Best Cheap Eats/Best Take Out Food

TURTLE BAY TAQUERIA

1301 Fremont Blvd., Seaside, 899-1010.

431 Tyler St., Monterey, 333-1500.

Start with two of the nicest people in the restaurant business-Julio and Marie Ramirez-add quality employees with good hearts, mix in fresh local ingredients prepared with a zippy South American flair, and serve in a fun, upbeat atmosphere, then don''t charge a lot. With that recipe, it''s easy to see how Turtle Bay wins for Best Cheap Eats, as well as Best Take Out. From opening to closing time at both locations, they crank out good, inexpensive food at high volume to those in the know. Turtle Bay is the place where you always enjoy the food and come away feeling better than when you went in-a lofty accomplishment for an under-appreciated segment of the restaurant industry.

Best Restaurant Monterey

STOKES RESTAURANT AND BAR

500 Hartnell St., Monterey, 373-1110.

Quietly tucked behind three very large trees, a redwood, a palm and an oak, the building that houses Stokes Restaurant and Bar sits comfortably, secure in knowing it has watched all three grow up from young saplings. Inside, a youthful, sophisticated spirit emanates from the core group of talented restaurateurs, Kirk and Dorothea Probasco and Chef Brandon Miller. With the feel of a country inn and the soul of a big city eatery, Stokes satisfies on all levels, bringing imaginatively prepared dishes of all shapes and sizes to a steadily growing audience of devotees. Using only the freshest possible ingredients from the most reputable purveyors, Miller has fashioned a menu that excites while it comforts and stimulates while it sustains. Stokes is a bit difficult to find the first time, but once you know the way, you''ll never forget it.

Best Mexican Restaurant

PEPPERS MEXICALI CAFE

170 Forest Ave., Pacific Grove, 373-6892.

The secret to Peppers'' success can be summed up in three words: freshness, freshness, and freshness. The food, a compendium of Latin American dishes from the Caribbean, Mexico and Central America, is never over-processed, overcooked, or overwrought. It''s one of the most pleasant places to dine and has managed to transcend fashion trends for 15 years. Yeah, yeah, we know, Peppers has won in this category for more years than it has square feet. Maybe that has something to do with the Roasted Red Pepper and Garlic Snapper, a dish that might more rightly be called Roasted Red Pepper and Snapper Garlic. On your next visit, see how this dish''s uncountable cloves of slivered garlic deliver a delicious knockout punch to the palate. In second place, Plaza Linda offers reasonable prices, a crowded bar, and a lovely patio/ atrium, making dining in this cantina a mood-lifting experience.

Best Restaurant Salinas

HULLABALOO

228 S. Main St., Salinas, 757-3663.

To watch the Three Amigos-Todd Fisher, Wil Reynolds and Bill Casio-work Hullabaloo in Oldtown Salinas is like watching a trio of bees working a field of wildflowers. They energetically pollinate each patron with their infectious enthusiasm about the place and about food, wine and good times. It is obvious that this is a group of guys really happy to be finally running their own place instead of someone else''s. It shows in the way the customers act so comfortable and welcome, in how happy and courteous the employees appear, and in how good the overall experience is. Hullabaloo has become the poster child for the resurgence of Oldtown and a tribute to its owners'' vision, commitment and talent.

Best Mediterranean Restaurant

PETRA RESTAURANT

Lighthouse Ave. and 13th, Pacific Grove, 649-2530.

Petra bills itself as a Mediterranean restaurant, but its menu hails from the far eastern shores of that warm, sky-blue sea, drawing upon the cuisines of Turkey and the Middle East. It''s owned by George and Laila Nimri, Jordanian immigrants, who opened their first Middle Eastern restaurant in Pacific Grove 18 years ago. Son Samer runs the kitchen, and his wife Rawan handles the front of the house. Falafel, shish-kebab, plump charbroiled chicken sandwiches, meat gyros, lamb shanks and moussaka are among the items popular with the locals and DLI instructors who crowd in for lunch and dinner every day-these are folks who know good value. The Vegetarian Combination Platter is a great way to sample the best hummus, tabouli, falafel, dolmas and baba ghannouj around; finish it off with honey-laden baklava and a tiny cup of rich, thick Turkish coffee, and dream of Arabian nights.

Best Italian Restaurant

VITO''S

1180 Forest Ave., Pacific Grove, 375-3070.

There are a lot of good things to say about Vito''s. The room is light and airy and somehow feels homey at the same time. The service is casual yet professional. The wine list is limited but very satisfying. Vito himself, a genuine Monterey off-the-boat Italian-American, is the ideal of a gracious host.

But we suspect that the reason Vito''s won a Best of Monterey star this year is because the food is sublime. From the carpaccio and bruschetta through the picatta and canneloni to the tiramisu and canolis, Vito''s lays out a classic Old World Italian feast. Every meal is carefully prepared, artfully presented and smilingly delivered. And so thoroughly enjoyed.

Best New Restaurant 2002

BOUCHEE RESTAURANT AND WINE BAR

Mission between Ocean and 7th, Carmel, 626-7880.

Best Restaurant 10+ Years

FISHWIFE

789 Trinity Ave., Seaside, 394-2027.

Best Restaurant in County

FRESH CREAM

99 Pacific St., Monterey, 375-9798.

Best Restaurant Big Sur

CIELO AT VENTANA INN

Hwy. 1, Big Sur, 624-4812.

Best Restaurant Carmel

CASANOVA RESTAURANT

Mission and 5th, Carmel, 625-0501.

Best Restaurant Carmel Valley

CAFE RUSTICA

10 Delfino Pl., Carmel Valley, 659-4444.

Best Restaurant Marina

AJ SPURS

3295 Dunes Dr., Marina, 883-9479.

Best Restaurant Monterey

STOKES RESTAURANT AND BAR

500 Hartnell St., Monterey, 373-1110.

Best Restaurant Pacific Grove

FANDANGO RESTAURANT

223 17th St., Pacific Grove, 372-3456.

Best Restaurant Sand City

PAPA CHANO''S

Edgewater Shopping Center, Sand City, 393-9133.

Best Restaurant Salinas

HULLABALLOO RESTAURANT

228 S. Main St., Salinas, 757-3663.

Best Restaurant Seaside

FISHWIFE

789 Trinity Ave., Seaside, 394-2027.

Best Restaurant Pebble Beach

ROY''S

2700 17 Mile Dr., Pebble Beach, 647-7423.

Best Restaurant North County

PHIL''S FISH MARKET AND EATERY

7600 Sandholdt Rd., Moss Landing, 633-2152.

Best Breakfast

OLD MONTEREY CAFE

489 Alvarado St., Monterey, 646-1021.

Best Cheap Eats

TURTLE BAY TAQUERIA

1301 Fremont Blvd., Seaside, 899-1010.

431 Tyler St., Monterey, 333-1500.

Best Place For a Biz Lunch

TARPY''S ROADHOUSE

Hwy. 68 at Canyon Del Rey, Monterey, 647-1444.

Best Chinese

CHEF LEE''S

2031 N. Fremont Blvd., Monterey, 375-9551.

1616 N. Main St., Salinas, 422-3385.

Best Family Restaurant

ROSINE''S

434 Alvarado St., Monterey, 375-1400.

Best French

FRESH CREAM

99 Pacific St., Monterey, 375-9798.

Best Indian

INDIA''S CLAY OVEN

150 Del Monte Ave., Monterey, 373-2529.

Best Italian

VITO''S

1180 Forest Ave., Pacific Grove, 375-3070.

Best Japanese/Sushi

ROBATA GRILL

3658 The Barnyard, Carmel, 624-2643.

Best Korean

ROYAL KOREAN BBQ

330 reservation RD., Marina.

Best Mediterranean

PETRA RESTAURANT

Lighthouse Ave. and 13th, Pacific Grove, 649-2530.

Best Mexican

PEPPERS MEXICALI CAFE

170 Forest Ave., Pacific Grove, 373-6892.

Best Thai

THAI BISTRO

159 Central Ave., Pacific Grove, 372-8700.

Best Outdoor Dining

FORGE IN THE FOREST

Junipero and 5th, Carmel, 624-2233.

Best Restaurant For Vegetarians

TILLIE GORT''S

111 Central Ave., Pacific Grove, 373-0335.

Best Clam Chowder

VIVOLO''S CHOWDER HOUSE

127 Central Ave., Pacific Grove, 372-5414.

Best Restaurant to Splurge

PACIFIC''S EDGE AT HIGHLANDS INN

120 Highlands Dr., Carmel Highlands, 620-1234.

Best Take Out Food

TURTLE BAY TAQUERIA

1301 Fremont Blvd., Seaside, 899-1010.

431 Tyler St., Monterey, 333-1500.

Best Wine List

SARDINE FACTORY

701 Wave St., Monterey, 373-3775.

Best Romantic Dining

OLD BATH HOUSE

620 Ocean View Blvd., Pacific Grove, 375-5195.

Best Seafood

FISHWIFE

789 Trinity Ave., Seaside, 394-2027.

Best Steak

WHALING STATION

763 Wave St., Monterey, 373-3778.