Posted March 03, 2005 12:00 AM
FoodChain FOODCHAIN: Delicious Diplomacy: From left, Big Sur Bakery’s Pastry Chef Michelle Rizzolo, proprietor Michael Gilson and Chef Philip Wojtowicz had three-star French chefs in awe of their ability. Randy Tunnell
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FoodChain

Too Much Fun

SOMEBODY’S GOTTA DO IT… I’m one tired puppy. I’m reminded—as I often am—of the conversation I had with Martin Meursault, former long-time restaurant reviewer for The Herald, when he spoke to me of having to stop because the lifestyle was killing him. (I know some of you are reading this and wanting to put me on a spit and roast me good).

Anyway, I muddled my way through the Masters of Food and Wine, which needs no more explanation, plus The Main Event: Cruisin’ the Sea of Cortez at the Steinbeck Center, all in the same weekend. The more I go to the Steinbeck Center for events, the more I dig it. They did a whole cruise ship theme and raised a bunch of money for the Museum’s educational programs. Folks in the crowd were paying huge sums for treats like racing lessons at the Skip Barber School, a huge barrel full of Monterey wines, a helicopter ride with David Gill, dinner for ten with Chef “Red Shoes” Fisher at Monterra Estates, an incredible Country Music Awards package at Madison Square Garden, including the before and after parties, plus other amazing stuff.

One of the auction item highlights was a day at Shasta Lake with wakeboard instructor Chris Mills (aka “The Undertaker,” because wherever there’s a good wake, he’s gonna be lurking). Bidding was fast and furious, with some of the women in the crowd calling for The Undertaker, who was posing with his big board, to remove his shirt—after all, it was strictly in the interest of raising money for a good cause. Reluctantly, and to the utter dismay of his parents, Lisa and David, Chris shed the shirt and compelled one weak-kneed bidder to pay way too much for an opportunity to stand atop a slab of wood skipping across the water.

The beautiful reality was that the live auction made 26,000 beans and the total amount raised for the Steinbeck Center was upwards of $60,000. Salinas is no cow-town, let me tell you. As always, Captain Wil Reynolds and the Hullaballoo crew made sure everyone was well fed and libated (that’s a new word). Don’t miss this event next year.


HOT STUFF IN BIG SUR, ETC.… One interesting sidebar related to The Masters involved two Michelin three-star chefs, Gerard Boyer and Philippe Legendre, a couple of longtime Masters attendees and our own Big Sur Bakery. Joe Schoendorf, local resident and veteran of I think every Masters of Food and Wine, has known the chefs for years and invited them on behalf of Park Hyatt, Highlands Inn to be involved in this year’s Masters. Boyer, now retired, had been sought after for the event but would not travel while still working.

So they were here this year and added another rung of greatness to the ever-ascending ladder that is The Masters. Well, just so happens that Sunday night, after everything was finished, Boyer, Legendre, Schoendorf and few others went down to Big Sur Bakery for a very special seven-course dinner hosted by Big Sur proprietor Michael “Gilly” Gilson and prepared by Chef Philip Wojtowicz and Pastry Chef Michelle Rizzolo.

Mister Schoendorf “brought in some very rare bottles that even raised the eyebrows of the visiting chefs,” said Gilly. Gilly continued, “best of all, in typically generous fashion, Joe insisted the staff taste the wines too. Joe is Big Sur Bakery’s most loyal customer, and we basically consider him family.” Nice family, I’d say.

Cooking for an elite group like that is unbearable pressure. It’s like playing the piano for McCoy Tyner or coaching basketball in front of John Wooden—these people just know too much, so you can’t afford to be less than perfect, although my experience has been that truly great people are also the most understanding.

About the experience: a few of the comments from the great French chefs included, “We can’t get meat cooked like this in France.” “This is the best bread we have ever had, I thought we invented bread,” and, “if only our bistros could be this good.”

I’ve been touting the merits of Big Sur Bakery for quite some time, though, in retrospect, probably not enough. Get into your car this second and drive there for any meal of the day, then take home as many baked goods and breads as you can carry, distribute them to your friends and loved ones and repeat regularly. Check out the whole scene at bigsurbakery.com or call Gilly at 667-0520. I say six stars worth of right on to Gilly and the folks at BSB.

Congratulations to the Marina Hospitality Association for its fun International Flavors of Marina event. The place was packed, the food, wine and beer were flowing and everybody had a great time. It really showcased the many different varieties of cuisine available in Marina and just how much fun there is to be had. I’ll revisit the event in next week’s column for a closer look at who was there.


TAPAS STYLE… Nargis and Andre Lengacher are back from Kenya (the country survived) and are having Middle Eastern night on Friday, March 4 with ethnic food, belly dancing and music for $25 per person, then Opera Evening on Sunday, March 6 at 6pm with Heller Estate providing the complimentary apps and wine for dinner-goers at 5pm. It’s only $34.95 per person. It’s at Grapesteak Restaurant in the Village, 659-5020…Help abused and neglected children: CASA, National Court Appointed Special Advocate Association, is benefiting from a special closed gallery private view of Steven Whyte sculptures. Call to reserve for the preview reception and silent auction at 8pm on Friday, March 4th and the unveiling reception and auction on the 5th. Events take place on Cannery Row at Steven Whyte Figurative Sculpture Studios as well as A Taste of Monterey. Call 373-1817 for info and ressies…Veg2U has just started doing dinners. It’s all vegan and raw and yours by reservation only at 375-8343. For March, first dinner is half price…California Restaurant Association is loading up for the annual golf tournament at Bayonet. Contact Cindy Walter at 596-2869 or cindy@passionfish.net to sponsor a hole, donate auction items, sign up for golf, etc…This Friday and Saturday is the official grand opening for Sugar Reef, the hot new Carmel restaurant by Jerome and Jill Fressinier on Dolores at 5th, downstairs. French Caribbean cuisine, artistic décor, nice people, excellent food, 620-0700…Those great red velvet curtains at Fifi’s were made by Maria Sharp, wife and co-owner with Todd Sharp of Cuqui’s Cars in Marina, the world’s most down-to-earth, honest car and motorcycle dealership. Call Maria at 915-5018 if you want her to transform your establishment too. Hasta Lumbego.

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