Monterey’s new Wine Trolley is as fun as it sounds.

{ FOOD&WINE }

The latest addition to the local swirl-and-sip scene runs on biodiesel and wouldn’t be around if it wasn’t for local ghosts and a pony-tailed man with $25,000. I found myself on its small back porch just the other day, sipping Ventana Gewurztraminer on a pinch-yourself autumn Saturday afternoon as it moved up and over the sun-splattered Sierra de Salinas foothills toward Carmel Valley.

The pony-tailed man is named Gary Munsinger. For five years, the longtime local has led ghost tours around Old Monterey, summoning spirits in haunts like the Old Bathhouse and Stokes Adobe for interested visitors. Last year, he says, he “got tired of walking.”

So Munsinger started searching for a trolley, found one on eBay from a man doing wine tours in Napa, and forked over the 25 large. It’s a pretty sweet rig, with wooden seats for around 20, brass handrails and lots of windows. When Munsinger’s business sensibilities told him he needed a daytime component, the “wine trolley” revved its engines. It runs daily, leaving from in front of the Monterey Conference Center at 11am, for $49.

While Monterey-Salinas Transit’s Grapevine Express gets folks to the Carmel Valley constellation of eight wineries and tasting rooms for far less and with more schedule flexibility (shuttles pass stops every half hour), Munsinger’s five hour adventure eliminates waiting alongside the road for a bus and benefits greatly from his experience in hospitality. It’s well-scripted, with three stops – one at Ventana’s tasting room adjacent to Tarpy’s Roadhouse on Highway 68, another at the wine hub that Carmel Valley Village has become, and a final visit to either Boëte’s tasting room next to Baja Cantina or Château Julien. Along the way, Munsinger circulates a sandwich and snack menu and injects little tour-guidey flashes of local color. Meanwhile, whether it’s the group’s numbers or Munsinger’s practice of calling ahead to give pourers a heads up, we were exceedingly well received at each spot we stopped. The “trolley discount” – as much as 15 percent in some places – is also nice. Being able to sip as Munsinger drives and plays jazz over the PA is even nicer.

The lush geranium-rimmed deck behind Ventana’s tasting room works as a great starting spot. There the man Munsinger describes as “The Sultan of Swirl,” Richard Jensen, swoops into a Ventana – and general-wine-tasting – crash course starring some 10 different wines. Of the four whites we washed around, a 2004 Reserve Chardonnay ($19.20) stood out, though the reputable 2004 Gold Stripe “flagship” Chardonnay leaves the cellar for $10 less. A 2003 Beaugravier and a smooth 2004 Syrah, with a bold taste born of spice and blueberry that won gold at this year’s International Eastern Wine Competition, also appealed. After the tasting we promptly adjourned to the sales desk to load up for the trip over the grade. My pal Mac and I grabbed a 2005 Gewurzt ($16) for the back balcony.

In Carmel Valley, Munsinger parked the party trolley behind Paradise Wine Bar and released the wine hounds. Our new group of five fast friends made for Chateau Sinnet while Munsinger went to Carmel Valley Market to grab our pre-ordered sandwiches (the pulled pork, $9, is a tasty way to go).

At Sinnet ($5/tasting), a gregarious host named Sunny and the Ventana wines in my belly made me much more amenable to their decidedly sweet specialty wines (they also do some serious traditional varietals, including the popular Red Eyed Monkey blend). They’re not wines to be enjoyed every day, but the Pomegranate Toulouse ($16) and the Almond Cuvee ($15 but sold out and going for $30-plus online) were delicious. The selection of sweets and gourmet foods also impressed.

Over at Joullian ($5/tasting), we found a good value in a Retro Rouge table red crafted from 50 percent Zinfandel and five other grapes ($18) and a superb Roger Rose Vineyard Chardonnay ($22.40).

Around 3pm Gary relocated the trolley to the community park and we traipsed into Heller for some organic excellence. Here the 2002 Estate Cabernet ($35 and going quick) shined and the Chenin Blanc ($25) seemed preordained for an idyllic Indian Summer day.

Our last stop, Boëte ($3/tasting), offered a regal set of estate wines from a tiny family vineyard. The ’03 Estate Cabernet Franc Reserve, ’03 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and ’02 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve each made me happy to be in another good place to drink wine. Admittedly, though, the crowded room had me eyeing an even-better spot: the sunny station on the tail end of the trolley.

>THE WINE TROLLEY

527 Hartnell St., Monterey • 624-1700 or toursmonterey.com