<>Upon entering a pub, even the most pessimistic, arrogant or timid individuals typically become infected by a glass-half-full state of mind, adopt a humble yet lively demeanor, and interject friendly comments into nearby conversations.

Though ideal for community-gathering (and getting a little loopy), pubs aren’t usually a destination when dining is top priority, though it’s nice to take in a meal without having to break away from a dart tournament or a debate about whose complete works to take to a desert island: The Beatles or The Stones. I recently returned from London and was feeling a bit pub-hungry when I decided to head over and make dining a priority at The Mucky Duck. Rumor had it that change was afoot.

My favorite pub partner met me at the Duck on a Thursday, when plenty of customers were hard at work creating ambience. Though mostly 20-and-30-something, the crowd was multi-generational, one of the hallmarks of a good pub. There was also a strong showing of regulars—another good sign.

The Duck is a casual, everyman kind of a place. It stands in utter contrast to glossy eateries that continue to be harvested from the seeds of ‘90s wealth. A defiantly worn place like the Duck can be a refreshing choice.

Three years ago, when the Duck’s then-owners decided to sell, bartender Eric Waddell bought the place with his father, John. They continue to be all about trying new things like Wednesday Open Mike, Reggae Sunday (from 2 to 6pm), and an aggressive Happy Hour, with all 27 draught beers and well drinks at $2 (4-6pm).

There’s live music five nights a week, but the house system played blues and R&B to cathartic effect when I was there, adding to a good vibe fostered by the distinct environments in the long pub. There’s an area that calls for good conversation with its antique fireplace and parlor-like feel. Then there’s booths for dining and the nexus that pubs are most famous for: a bar and stools that connect a folksy bartender with a sociable cast of characters. Trevor, a charismatic bartender of four-years tenure, fits his side of the equation. There’s also a cool fire pit with seating.

On the outdoor patio there’s a full bar, another fire pit, and a stage with live music that drives the scene. Or is that beer driving the scene? Or the many singles?

A full bar offers top-shelf spirits, but we were interested in the draught beers and the 45 bottled beers. I prefer ale, with more complex flavor, to more mellow tasting lager, and enjoyed a 1066 India Pale Ale and Triple B. Bitter, both on tap.

The Mucky Duck is housed in an old Spanish adobe, yet it feels authentically British. Even Britain has fakes—overly atmospheric pubs that seduce naïve tourists and serve bad ale and bad food. A trend to preserve historic pubs is growing, and another trend is the “gastropub.” This involves the introduction of good chefs into old pubs. They upgrade traditional dishes with quality ingredients and add modern, European and Indian-inspired dishes.

The Mucky Duck has produced a Californian version of the gastropub by hiring chef Eric Whitlock straight from a stint at a restaurant in England. Each of his menus is extensive for a pub.

The lunch menu features mostly sandwiches for $7.95, like Curry Shrimp, Avocado Chicken Breast, and a half-pound burger. A late-night pub menu with items priced from $5 to $10 has salads, calamari, French Dip, the burger, and the usual appetizer suspects.

The dinner menu is the one that goes gastropub. Beef Wellington, Fish and Chips, and Cottage Pie represent tradition. Modern recipes include roast duck with a strawberry merlot sauce and a pancetta-wrapped pork chop with a Strongbow Cider sauce.

Pizza, pasta, fish and chips, and the ubiquitous burger cost under $10. Other entrees cost $11 to $19.

The Fish and Chips are as good as any at a London pub. Tender, flaky fish and light, fresh batter just aren’t easy to find. I was impressed.

<>I tried my guest’s entrée, the Pistachio-Crusted Halibut ($17.95). The fish was fresh and the champagne herb sauce was creamy, but not too rich. We both enjoyed it, with broccolini and rice sides, but for spendier entrées like this, I’d prefer to splurge at nearby Stokes or Montrio. The Duck has many more affordable menu items at a price point that’s congruent with the overall experience.

I decided to spend all of my fun calories on beer rather than dessert, so I can’t comment on the unfermented treats, but let’s just say there are a few good reasons to visit the Mucky Duck, and dinner is just one of them.

The Mucky Duck

479 Alvarado St., Monterey
655-3031
Open daily 11am-2am