I first heard about Chez Christine last summer, but didn’t get around to visiting then. The details were hazy. Something about a French woman, Christine, and her husband, the chef, who makes everything, including the bread and the mayonnaise, and they live upstairs. I imagined the décor, food and service simply as – stage, setting and props – for a romantic narrative.

A month later, I received an invitation to a dinner dreamed up by a customer to raise funds for Christine’s husband, Francis Richard. He was diagnosed with a form of leukemia during an interval between health insurance plans. Reportedly, their son, Christoph, was helping his mother maintain the new business while Francis was hospitalized. There are no employees, though Christine and Christoph are skilled at every job, from bussing to cooking.

A weekend breakfast menu features omelets and other dishes, and on weekdays it’s strictly pastry, housemade croissants and specialty coffees. The engaging Christine presided over a warm ambience, and a flurry of fans circulated about. One customer, of her own accord, was collecting e-mail addresses to help Christine establish a mailing list for events.

I returned for dinner with a friend and was enchanted with the whole experience. Many Carmel restaurants have a so-called European charm, but Christine’s has the quirks of an actual European operation. I felt more like a guest in someone’s home, with all the good will and relaxed organizational structure that implies.

For example, it was 10 minutes before our wine order was taken. It wasn’t bothersome and I might not have noticed if it weren’t my job to notice, because we had plenty to talk about and the dining room is so cozy, with only 22 seats and rich golden lighting. (Front and back patios double the seating in clement weather.)

Then, when I learned there isn’t a wine list, I asked what kind of wine is available. “Fumé Blanc, Chardonnay, a nice Meritage… ” and Christine went on to name about 10 varietals. I played along as if this were a perfectly normal way to order wine: “Who makes the Meritage?” She said, “It comes from Paso Robles.”

No vintner? No vineyard? No vintage? I managed not to smirk. In fact, I was impressed. I don’t know of a local restaurant with the balls to present wines in this fashion. We ordered the Meritage without knowing a thing about it, not even the price. Christine was so busy working alone, I didn’t want to pester her with questions. I was already one of her devoted fans.

Don’t get me wrong. I felt well-cared for. Trusting the hosts and leaving the details to them seemed part of the point. In any case, the Meritage was excellent. Unlike most soft, accessible California blends, this was surprisingly complex. Too bad I never found out where it was from.

Chef Richard is back at work, making solidly executed bistro-style dishes without whimsy or fanfare, as he chooses to focus on preparation. The handwritten dinner menu changes daily, and rotates specialties. Entrees include soup or a salad for $21 to $26. Appetizers such as escargots, fried artichokes, and paté du jour are priced at $7.95 or $8.95. Most wines are $7 or $8 per glass or $28-$33 per bottle.

For starters, fried food lovers will enjoy the artichoke hearts. They’re battered and, well, hearty, and served with housemade mayonnaise, a luxurious treat which also graces the lunchtime sandwiches. The French onion soup is always available. Its full-flavored broth tasted honestly achieved compared with common high-sodium versions, though I prefer a stronger cheese than the jack-and-Swiss combo used here.

The garden salad was ample, with carrot and cucumber, and made delightful by a balanced vinaigrette. The recipe is from Christine’s grandmother, who was a cook at the family’s 130-year-old restaurant in Normandy.

My duck confit entree was nicely done. That means crisp and flavorful on the outside, tender on the inside, and it was served with stewed white beans and carrots, roasted potatoes and asparagus. My friend ordered the highly recommended scallops “Normandie” made with Calvados apple brandy. The jumbo scallops were seared golden brown and sliced horizontally, allowing the delicious sauce to play a major role.

On two occasions, I ordered the Napoleon for dessert and was assured by my companion I would be eating it alone. On both occasions, one bite was followed by a few more and the discovery that a fresh Napoleon is irresistible. So much about Chez Christine is irresistible, especially Christine. Do check it out.

CHEZ CHRISTINE Junipero between Fifth and Sixth, Carmel • 8am to 11am, 11:30am to 3pm, and 6pm to 9:30pm Wed-Sun (full breakfast Sat-Sun; coffee/pastry Wed-Fri) • 624-0168.