Sniff This

Great local wine values and a retort from Bouchée's wine mastermind.

Bouchée Wines point man Kerry Winslow doesn’t have a problem with Robert Parker. “We must admit both Parker and The Wine Spectator have done wonders for the wine industry,” he says. “While Spectator seems highly political and maybe more money motivated, but overall it is positive force for the consumer, though it might help the collector more than the average wine drinker. As for Parker, he likes what he likes and who am I to argue with that? I’m the same way.”

Winslow points out that the “real problem when it comes to affordable wines” is the cost of winemaking domestically, especially in California. “Small wineries can’t afford to make $2.99 bottles here,” he says. “It costs most small producers about $7 a bottle at least to make good wine, so by the time it gets to the customer with profit for each stop on the way, it will sell for about $20.” With that price point in mind, here Winslow shares his local favorites of the moment, with approximate dollar amounts and Winslow’s tasting notes:

2006 Martin Alfaro Chardonnay ($18), Central Coast: This wine delivers big time with intense fruit – apple, pear, peach, pineapple and fig fruit in creamy layers – and lovely toasty oak notes.

2005 Galante Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon ($20), Rancho Galante, Carmel Valley: This is a big mouthful of Cab and shows all the right stuff – red berries, currants, sage, tobacco, saddle leather and chocolate – to give pure layers and complexities.

2005 Joullian Zinfandel Sias Cuvee ($20), Carmel Valley: Ridge Watson of Joullian keeps the faith here with Carmel Valley’s only Zinfandel. This grapey wine has an earthy almost Bordeaux-like essence that just gives it its own distinct character. Expect raspberry and brambleberry fruit, fresh herbs, pepper and crushed stones.

2006 Radog Gewurztraminer ($17), Monterey County: This is a nice juicy white with some classic Gewurz charm and spiciness. Bright citrus and apricots shine through here and good acidity makes this a balanced lighter style wine that is good for Asian cuisine.

2005 Snosrap Cyrano Red Table Wine ($20-25), Arroyo Seco, Monterey: Here is a lush, chocolaty red that shows some sage, cedar and cranberry on the nose with smooth cherry mocha on the palate. There is some green pepper notes that add a Cabernet Franc like character, but the rich mouth-feel and long finish will surprise you. This vintage has Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah and I think the Syrah really adds to the whole and makes it much more interesting.

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