{ FOOD&WINE }

Victor Kong knows what his customers want – whether it’s a serious bottle of a “Pisoni Vineyard” Pinot Noir or a package of Nathan’s hot dogs – and he knows their names. It’s almost scary.

As a woman in the wine aisle begins perusing the Pinot Noir from the Santa Lucia Highlands, Kong asks if he can help.

The lady looks relieved. “You’ve never done me wrong yet, Victor,” she says. Kong launches into a quick discussion of wines that pack in flavor at her moderate price point, then points out a supple Paraiso and a smooth Silvestri. With her previously aimless odyssey redirected, the woman heads for the checkout quite pleased with Kong’s efficient advice. It’s a representative moment: while Kong can talk malo-lactic fermentation and carbonic maceration with the best of them, his layman counsel is clear and insightful, and always audience-appropriate.

Kong has been a presence at Star Market for almost 25 years. These days the longtime grocery store manager’s benevolence is felt most here in the wine aisle.

“I inherited the wine section in ‘82 and I knew nothing about wine,” he says. “It’s just like anything else. You read, you visit, you taste.” Kong has built an impressive selection of local labels to rival any in the local area – Star Market sells nearly all of the 60 wineries in Monterey County, including the most obscure ones, like Marilyn Remark and their Rhone-style wines that aren’t found in other supermarkets. Along the course of his epicurean evolution, Kong has developed quite an eye for what he calls “undiscovered” wines. In between hand-selling bottles to a diverse group of customers – ranging from a doctor still in his scrubs (who got an Arroyo Secco Chock Rock Syrah) to a sweet old lady (who shouts, “Do you know where my wine is?” as Kong quickly places her desired bottle into the shopping cart) – he shared some of his favorite value buys with the Weekly:

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’06 Paraiso Riesling – Santa Lucia Highlands ($13.99) This bottle’s not as sweet as a Spatlese from Germany’s Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region, but it’s viscous and refreshing – perfect for a turkey sandwich. “If it’s a warm, sunny day,” Kong says, “sit on the patio and sip.”

’05 Chateau Le Cache Flow ($15) This drinkable “everyday” wine is well worth the teeth stains. “This ‘Wednesday night wine’ is a blend of Syrah, Sangiovese, and Barbera,” he says. “It’s easy on the palate and people keep coming back for more.”

‘05 Paraiso Pinot Noir – Santa Lucia Highlands ($19.99) Pinot Noir has a thin skin and is one of the most fickle grapes to grow, so a quality Pinot for $20 is rare. This wine’s soft tannins and strawberry and black pepper nuances make the palate sing – even a Burgundian would dig it. Says King: “It’s silky-smooth and it’s a great price.”

‘05 Cambiatta, Albarinho – Monterey ($19.99). The birthplace of albarinho, Rias Baixas, Spain, must be Monterey’s lost cousin. “This Spanish varietal recently started growing in here and is like Viognier, Chardonnay, and Pinot Grigio all whipped into one,” says Kong. Expect a weighty marshmallow character balanced by a refreshing acidity.

’05 Silvestri Pinot Noir – Santa Lucia Highlands ($29.99). Kong loves this fully extracted wine and its story. The owner of this winery is famous musician Alan Silvestri, who composed the music to such box office hits as Back to the Future. With amazing drinkability, Silvestri’s Pinot, like Kong’s wine lineup, deserves recognition.

STAR MARKET

1275 S. Main St., Salinas. • 9am-9pm Mon-Sat; 9am-8pm Sun. • 422-3961