High-Power Powwow: Didier Duterte, far right, and Colleen Manni, center, of Bistro Moulin, played host to chefs Michel Richard, far left, Jean Joho and Gérard Bechler during the recent Pebble Beach Food & Wine. Robin Manni
Foodchain
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Thursday, April 10, 2008
Where The Legends Go… Although it has been two weeks, post-partum waves of euphoric joy, laughter, fond memories and flowering legends still ripple across the Monterey Peninsula and the rest of the food and wine world from the giant splash cannon-balled by the Pebble Beach Food & Wine. Foodie and wino blogs like chowhound.com, yumsugar, SFeater and LAeater, the Wine Spectator online, etc., are buzzing with stories and raves about the four-day extravaganza. Local folks both in and out of the business have been thrilled by the attention, the sexiness and the overall positive impact the event has had on our area – an area desperate for something new to fire up the incoming flight plans.
Reports out of Pebble Beach are predominately favorable, with certain logistical focus points for future planning. There is no doubt that because of its long history of hosting enormously successful world-class events, Pebble was the only venue that could have supported the scope and magnitude of Rob Weakley and David Bernahl’s vision. Another big rah rah for all of them.
A beautiful offshoot – one of many to come in the future – of this year’s event has to do with the impact it had on local businesses. Bistro Moulin, the happening restaurant of Didier Duterte and Colleen Manni, hosted some old friends, Michel Richard (Citronelle), Jean Joho (Jean Joho’s), Hubert Keller (Fleur de Lys) and Gérard Bechler (Bechler’s) during the weekend.
“It’s all business out there, and a lot of ego,” Moulin’s chef/owner Duterte said. “They came here for camaraderie and to relax.”
A couple of connections: Duterte, Joho and Keller all had training at the L’Ecole Hôtelìere de Strasbourg; Gerard Bechler and Hubert Keller both worked at the 3 Star Michelin restaurant Auberge de L’Ill in Strasbourg. Everyone ordered steak frites… French comfort food… that’s what I’m talking about.
Take Out… You know what else I’m talking about: details, like I saw my man Adalberto Bernardino taking care of at the beginning of a lunch shift at Bistro Giovanni last week. He has worked as a waiter and all-around serving pro at Da Giovanni’s and Bistro Giovanni’s in Carmel for the past seven years and was behind the bar cutting the foil and preparing the bottles of house wines so they’d be easier to use when the rush came. He was not extracting the corks, just lifting them enough so they could be hand removed. That keeps them ready, but fresh. Remember, oxygen is the enemy. Too often you see restaurant workers pre-opening bottles of wine completely. Way to go, Adalberto.
By the way, Firok Shield, owner of both of those fine Carmel establishments, is building Bistro Beaujolais on the Plaza as we speak (er, read). It’s on the ground level in Carmel Plaza, just a couple doors over from The Cheese Shop and will feature a good-sized bar, outdoor patio and French Mediterranean cuisine. If history holds to form, with Firok at the helm, this should be another feather in Carmel’s dining cap. Look for it in the next few months.
In The Pipeline… Love what the Delaney Brothers, Craig and Chris, are doing at Hula’s, both here in New Monterey and in Santa Cruz. Mahalo Mondays started this month, where 10 percent of every Monday night’s total sales (that is just about what a well-run restaurant makes in profit) will go to a different charity each month. This month it’s Suicide Prevention Services of the Central Coast. Surfrider Foundation, MY Museum, HOPE Services, Forest Theater, Monterey County Coastal Cleanup, MCAP, ALBA farmers and Sun Street Centers round out the year’s list. I was talking to Craig the other night (had a mai tai jones) and he was all excited about the program. That’s the aloha spirit, baby. Nice going.
Stirring… I popped in the back door at L’Auberge last week to look in on chef Christophe Grosjean’s first day. He was prepping away, readying himself for the night’s dinner crowd. It was funny seeing him so relatively motionless. The kitchen there is small, while the one at Bernardus Lodge is huge and he would be running all over the place. Meanwhile, Cal “Where are my knives?” Stamenov is back at the helm at Bernardus until they can locate somebody talented enough to replace Christophe.
There was a line in the classic movie The Dirty Dozen where the psychologist asks Colonel Reichman if his men even know it’s Mother’s Day and he doesn’t know either. Thank goodness for Gina Martin, the hard-drive in the kitchen office at Bernardus. She sent me an e-mail about the great Mother’s Day brunch Bernardus has coming up… when is Mother’s Day?
The Cup Runneth… Zeph’s Wine Bar in Salinas is doing a Syrah and Zin tasting April 17 at 5:30pm with names like Rosenblum, Storybook, Derose, Cosentino, Pessagno, Joullian, Seghesio, Christian Lazo, Earthquake, Brassfield Estate, Marilyn Remark, De Tierra, Chalone, Staggs Leap, Novy, Leal, Justin, Karly, and more. Tickets are $20 in advance or $25 that day, so call 757-3947.
The Covey at Quail Lodge is doing “Sample, Savor, Celebrate” Tuesday through Saturday from 5 to 6pm. Tapas-style plates created by chef de cuisine Matt Bolton will go with featured wines by the glass and specialty martinis with a menu that will change seasonally. After enjoying hors d’ouerves and cocktails, dine on the new Sunset Menu available Tuesday through Saturday from 6 to 7pm on The Covey Deck. It’s a three-course tasting menu that will change weekly to feature the freshest ingredients of the season. Call 620-8860 and go see why Ted and Cindy Walter from Passionfish love this place.
Ted is going to Pasadena to cook with and lecture folks about sustainability and being green (sing it to me, Kermit) but I’m out of room to tell you about it now… more later on… later on.





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