It just doesn’t happen. It would be like going to a San Francisco Giants game and paying 25 cents for a hot dog. Yet that’s Passionfish Restaurant, a big-league dinner house where the wine is priced the same as in the grocery store.

Owners Ted and Cindy Walter don’t mark up their wines for several reasons. One: They want to draw people to their door. Two: They want to have fun exploring avant-garde wines others haven’t heard of. Three: They want to earn adoration among wine geeks– and the buzz that accompanies it.

The wine muse the Walters hired to pull it off is Jennae Lizza.

“Charging retail was their idea,” says Lizza, who has honed a nose for great wines by way of numerous wine classes at UC Davis and endless amounts of on-the-job experience. “They’re the marketing geniuses.”

But Lizza is being humble. Stocking obscure wines is risky. Keeping such an extensive and updated list is exhausting. Staff must be knowledgeable and passionate in order to turn guests on to a wine they don’t know.

Lizza pulls it off, making wine crossword puzzles, maps and trivia games for servers on her own time. Homework is assigned to the servers every week– and when they do it, they get stars next to their names. As weeks go by, star students receive prizes only epicureans would appreciate: Recently, someone won a tub of truffle butter. She also stocks the restaurant’s bus station with wine binders and reference books.

The result? “Our customers come here because they know they can find something oddball,” she says.

For those skeptical of exotic wines, big names like Silver Oak Cabernet ($55) are available. In both cases, diners are invited to experiment because the investment is low.

“That’s what’s so fun about our list,” Lizza says. “… a $30 experiment here would be a $60 one somewhere else.”

Lizza encourages the servers to sell what they enjoy.

“I like them to taste in small groups and if they really love something, I tell them to go for it. Sell it,” she says. “We don’t make a ton of money, but we get to eat, drink and have fun.”

A recent visit revealed five wines that reflect the restuarant’s ability to create an esoteric list that is striking and affordable.

This wine has flavors of marmalade and fresh peaches with a mineral-rich foundation. The great aromatics, refreshing acidity and weightiness on the tongue make this a good match with– surprise– seafood.

Although this wine can seem sweet, it has enough acidity to make people wonder why they’d ever drink Pinot Grigio. Enjoy the nutty bouquet of pistachios and almonds.

A dry, exotic wine that somehow displays crème brule flavors and finishes dry. Great with oysters.

Cannonau is Grenache. The climate of Sardegna is warm and it shows. The alcohol is pronounced and the berry flavors mix with smoky tobacco nuances. At this price, this wine should be enjoyed nightly.

It’s arguably the best Mourvedre around. It’s tannic and gamey with a dark color and concentrated dark chocolate flavors. A powerful and rustic wine that shouldn’t be overlooked.

PASSIONFISH 701 Lighthouse Ave., Pacific Grove. • Open from 5pm nightly. • 655-3311, www.passionfish.net.