In Walt Disney’s Cinderella, her fairy Godmother waved her magic wand over a pumpkin, and – poof – the orange orb transformed into a golden carriage. I remember pleading with my mom to buy me a pumpkin just like Cindy’s (Mom claims there were tears – lots of ’em). But what could she do? We lived in Singapore, where the squat, deeply ridged pumpkin was practically impossible to come by.

Even after I moved to the U.S., not a single Cinderella pumpkin appeared. I kept running into jack-o’-lanterns, great for Halloween carving but lousy for eating. Pumpkin depression shadowed my existence… until recently, as different varieties of pumpkins and winter squashes – Cinderella included – began to edge their way into the market.

Earthbound Farm (7250 Carmel Valley Road, Carmel, 831-625-6219), unsurprisingly, was on the forefront, and today grows 27 types, many ranging from the watermelon look-alike Italian Stripe to the blue-gray Jarrahdale and teardrop-shaped Orange Hubard.

“There’s definitely a surge in interest in these squash, especially the kabocha and Black Futsu because of their complex flavor profiles,” says Earthbound Farm manager Mark Marino, who has been breeding and saving seeds for more than 20 years.“People are realizing that the Black Acorn Squash of their youthis fairly pedestrian in flavor and texture.”

Marino’s pet pumpkin is the kabocha (pronounced ka-BOH-chuh) with a forest green rind and pale green striping. “[With] its sweet, nutty flavor and meaty texture, there are so many great ways to prepare it,” he says.

For kabocha purée, he counsels, place halves (innards removed) skin-side up on a foil-lined pan and drizzle with vegetable oil or butter if desired. Roast at 350˚ F for 45 to 60 minutes. Scoop out the flesh and use in your favorite pumpkin pie recipe. Or cut into cubes and eat it as-is, skin and all.

Kabocha is just one sample in a wagon load of squash and pumpkins delivered to Cal Stamenov, executive chef at Bernardus Lodge (415 Carmel Valley Road, Carmel Valley, 831-658-3400) during the fall season.

Stamenov cautions that pumpkins vary in taste and texture. “Some have better flavors than others, especially when they are younger,” he says. Take the Cinderella pumpkin. “[It] is a little bit more watery but alongside braised kale or chard it would taste good.”

At Marinus, Bernardus Lodge’s acclaimed restaurant, Stamenov transforms Cinderella pumpkin into pumpkin apple cider soup with or without bacon – yes, pumpkin goes well with bacon or any pork product.

And don’t forget to toast the seeds. “We use them for breads, or as a garnish for soup,” he says, “and you can include them in stuffing.”

Most pumpkins can replace carrots or sweet potatoes in recipes, advises Stamenov. Just don’t swap them in recipes requiring chopped butternut squash, as pumpkins are not as dense.

Inspired by a particular passion for stuffing things, Executive Chef Tom Snyder at Casa Munras’ Estéban (700 Munras Ave., Monterey, 800-222-2446) created a wonderful dish – stuffed sugar pumpkin with root vegetables. If he could pack a bread bowl with chili, he reasoned, why not stuff a pumpkin with seasonal delights? “It acts as a vessel for the dish and its sweet flesh is also edible,” he says.

For a stunning vegetarian Thanksgiving centerpiece, Snyder suggests serving the root vegetables in a large pumpkin.

A cornucopia of pumpkins and squashes are sold at area farmers markets and some supermarkets. Fairy Godmother not included.

View Earthbound Farm’spumpkin I.D. guide at www.ebfarm.com/OurFarmStand/PumpkinID.aspx.

STUFFED SUGAR PUMPKIN WITH CURRIED ROOT VEGETABLES

Executive Chef Tom Snyder, Estéban

Try We Be Littles or mini kabochas too. The pumpkins can be roasted 2 days ahead. Serves 4.

4 sugar pumpkins Brown sugar to taste Salt to taste Butter to taste 2 carrots, peeled and cut into cubes 1 celery root, peeled and cut into cubes 12 pearl onions, peeled 1 butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut into cubes 2 parsnips, peeled and cut into cubes 2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and cut into cubes 3 cups vegetable stock Pinch of chopped fresh thyme 3 tablespoons yellow curry powder 1/2 pound baby spinach

Place pumpkins in a roasting pan and fill pan with about 1 inch of water. Season the inside of each pumpkin with brown sugar, salt and butter. Roast at 350° F for about 45 minutes or until tender. Pierce with the tip of a knife to check.

In a large pan, melt butter and throw in carrots, celery root and pearl onions. Sprinkle salt to release juices and cook until they begin to brown. Add butternut squash, parsnips and apples. Sprinkle more salt and cook for 5 minutes. Add stock to barely cover vegetables and stir in thyme and curry powder. Bring to a simmer and cook for another 8 minutes.

Taste vegetables for doneness and adjust seasonings if necessary. Stir in the spinach until wilted and incorporated into the vegetable mixture.

Stuff roasted pumpkins with vegetables and keep warm in a low oven until serving time. Serve with Moroccan couscous.

SUGAR PIE CRÈME BRÛLÉE

Executive Chef Cal Stamenov, Bernardus Lodge

Sugar Pie pumpkins are great for baking due to their high sugar content and smooth, even texture. Serves 6.

1/2 cup milk 2cups heavy cream 3/4 cup sugar pie purée, blended until smooth and strained through a fine sieve (1 small pumpkin) 1/2 cup sugar 3/4teaspoon cinnamon 3/4teaspoon ground ginger 1/4teaspoon ground nutmeg 3 egg yolks

In a saucepan, stir milk, cream, sugar pie purée, sugar and spices slowly over medium-low heat until first bubble appears.Slowly pour hot mixture into egg yolks, whisking quickly. Once everything is combined, strain immediately into a bowl sitting on ice. Cool, stirring occasionally.Refrigerate brûlée base at least 2 hours.

Fill 6 custard cups with brûlée base, place in a baking dish and fill with water until it reaches half way up the sides of custard cups. Cover and bake at 325° F for 25 to 35 minutes until set (i.e., no jiggling in the center). Cool and chill.