From the Fork: Salmon Creek Falls awaits to the left, a choice of backcountry destinations lie to the right. Lucas Handy
Falls, in Love
Winter marks a great time to get enamored with Big Sur’s Salmon Creek Falls.
Thursday, February 26, 2009
Dozens of blackened boulders sit scattered, like a handful of dice tossed by a prehistoric giant. Behind them, to the east, flows a constantly falling spectacle: Natural spring water that explodes outward from beneath a huge rock with the pressure of a busted fire hydrant.
Aligned just right, the setting sun creates a half rainbow as its beam stabs through the relentless mist that hovers over the surrounding rocks.
It’s a scene available in small glimpses from the short trail that leads to it, but one that can only be fully enjoyed after a short climb over a mossy boulder and a careful scamper along the cold rock surface of the shore beneath the 30-foot cascade.
Arriving at the trailhead of Salmon Creek Falls does require a little work behind the wheel, but a dry winter day is the best time to make the trek, as every storm that hounds the Big Sur coast channels more water to the falls which await on the east side of Highway 1.
The treasure can be found deep in south Monterey County, next to a large gravel turnout at mile marker MON 2.2, about 57 miles south of the Bixby Bridge.
The falls can actually be seen from Highway 1, just barely peeking over the canopy of trees. With the buzz of Highway 1 civilization chasing wondering hikers into nature, the enchanting waterfall tugs at their adventurous imagination, but doesn’t require an oversized appetite for exertion and risk. Shortly after committing to the hike and walking up the trail a little bit, a fork in the path appears, and the waterfall lies to the left. The journey to the falls lasts maybe five minutes and covers about a quarter mile.
For the purpose of a good picnic, a stirring background for next year’s holiday card, a bragging e-mail to friends who’d rather camp in front of a TV, or just an easy stroll to an impossible-to-overappreciate place, the daytime use trail to the waterfall is an excellent choice. Between the awakening scent of bay leaves, the warm inland breeze through the valley, and the intimidating presence of perfection, it’s all there… and life is good.
To the right, though, lies a little more adventure. As the trailhead signs point out, three post-falls hiking destinations lie ahead, conveniently located along the same trail. The shortest hike leads two miles back into the Los Padres National Forest and introduces hikers to Spruce Camp, and a mild but still pretty impressive backpacking trip – the kind to take the kids on.
Spruce Camp earns favor among hikers for its convenience, water proximity and space (albeit limited) for tent use. A rocky creek flows next to the two-site gem and has mini waterfalls of its own that create small pools to fill up a canteen (bring a filter along) or a quick rinse. It’s only downfall might be its location next to the trail, making for a potentially rude wake-up as in-route hikers shuffle by.
A little more intense trip travels to Estrella Camp, which sits 3 1⁄4 miles back into the valley. From Spruce the universal trail that hits all three destinations continues – well maintained most of the way – hugging the mountainside as it weaves through the valley, occasionally shoving hoofing hikers out to a Kodak moment with the Pacific in the background before leading them back into the cool creekside shade.
The desired Estrella camp site feels more isolated than it appears at first glance, located on a knoll near a grassy meadow, under the shade of trees and overlooking the creek that flows by just a few strides away.
Hikers looking for a more advanced backpacking trip will usually eye the last option, the six-mile Coast Ridge Road episode. This hike adds more breathtaking views to those provided by the first two stops – including vistas that start from near the top of the steep valley and tumble down to the ocean, with the creek snaking its way through the temperate rainforest landscape the whole way.
The farther back they trek, the more visitors will enjoy the welcome sounds of the wild: nature songs belted from the breast of western chickadees and black warblers, the rustle of a nearby deer climbing a steep slope with fawns in tow, a bushy-tailed red fox slinking through the underbrush as it stalks a small rabbit.
Ultimately the lively trail slides the hikers out onto a dirt road that follows the ridges of the Santa Lucia mountain range. A final reminder in calculating meal stops and South Coast adventures: the mile indicators on the sign point out one-way distances.
SALMON CREEK FALLS trailhead lies 9 miles south of Gorda Springs at an unpaved gravel turnout parking lot. There are two huge parking areas on both the east and west side of the highway.Visit www.hikinginbigsur.com/hikes_salmoncreek.html for more.





Comments
Use the comment form below to begin a discussion about this content.
Sign in to comment
Or login with:
OpenID