Lebanese food. Can you define it? Me neither. For some reason, Americans refer to cuisine from all the countries between Greece and India as “Middle Eastern,” blurring the distinctive flavors of individual nations. Then again, so does U.S. foreign policy…

Monterey, however, is doing its part to lift the cloud of culinary confusion. Already home to Amir’s Kabob House (Afghan) and the Persian Grill (Iranian), our city now boasts another nation-specific gem – Maha’s Lebanese Cuisine.

Lebanese-born chef/owner Maha and husband, Souhail Aridi hope to parlay Old Monterey Farmers Market fame into everyday success at their new café on Alvarado Street. Large front windows, an elevated ceiling, and pleasant yellow and burgundy tones convert the smallish space that once housed Bird on a Wire and Serendipity Cafe into a bright and cheery dining room with 16 tables. Brisk lunch and dinner rushes and eclectic background music complete the lively atmosphere. Toward the back, in the open kitchen, Maha works her magic under the red and white stripes and green cedar of the Lebanese flag.

THE HUMMUS ($5) IS SILKY SMOOTH, NUTTY AND FULL OF GARLIC FLAVOR – SOME OF THE BEST I’VE HAD.

Magic indeed. Over two visits, I sampled many of the hot and cold appetizers and was never disappointed. The hummus ($5) is silky smooth, nutty and full of garlic flavor – some of the best I’ve had. The large bowl of spicy potatoes ($5) packs some heat, and although a touch oily, is delectable. Maha’s fabulous samboosik ($6), a dish traditionally served during Ramadan, comprises four half-moon dough pockets filled with ground beef and a delicate blend of onions, pine nuts and spices, served with a side of hummus.

The yogurt and cucumber salad with pita triangles ($5) is fresh, cool and light. The thin and crispy cheese rolls ($5) are lined with herbs and a blend of three cheeses, and are definitely not mozzarella sticks. Kibbie ($7), a mainstay of Lebanese cuisine, is a deep-fried torpedo of ground beef, onions and cracked wheat. Served with a side of hummus, the deep, earthy flavors of Maha’s recipe are a winner.

Maha grinds both chickpeas and fava beans for her falafel ($7). The loosely packed mixture is then deep-fried to crunchy perfection and garnished with sweet and tangy pickled turnip strips (colored pink with beetroot). The falafel is deliciously spicy, but the tahini sauce adds a welcome coolness.

There are so many specialties on Maha’s small plates menu, including baba ghannouj (roasted eggplant and tahini paste), labneh (strained yogurt with olive oil), shankleesh (aged cheese with oregano), stuffed grape leaves, and spinach pie (all $5), that you may want to dine in the customary mezze style, ordering an array of items to share like tapas. Or let Maha make the selections by ordering the combination platter ($20).

But don’t stop there, because the entrées are equally satisfying. I enjoyed the spice-marinated beef and lamb shawarma ($11) over saffron rice with creamy tahini sauce and a side of fettouch salad (chopped garden vegetables and herbs with pita chips). My friend, Brian, the chicken specialist, tried the tawook kebabs ($13), which were accompanied by saffron rice and a liberal side of sautéed zucchini, bell peppers and onions. He commented that the grilled breast pieces were succulent but didn’t deliver the big flavor punch that the dish displayed visually. Reaching across the table with my pita chips, I enjoyed the side of fluffy garlic dip that he quite mistakenly ignored.

I ordered the lamb kebabs ($16) another evening and found them delicately spiced and tender. The mild saffron rice, herbed vegetables and hummus sides made for a filling meal.

Other entrées include stuffed bell peppers ($11/vegan, $12/beef), beef sheeshkebab ($15) and kafta (ground beef, onion and herb patties, $13). Seafood offerings like fish and chips ($14) and salmon filet ($17) add Monterey flair. Lamb shanks over cinnamon rice ($18) and filet mignon kebabs ($20) are the top dollar options.

The menu rounds out with a few sandwiches (falafel, shawarma, and kafta, $6-$7), salads (potato, taboulli, and fettouch, $5-$7), soup du jour ($5), and a $7 kid’s menu (drink included). Maha’s also offers a seven-item lunch special from 11am-2pm ($10).

Despite the plethora of mouth-watering choices, save room for dessert, because Maha deals some of the best baklava around – sweet, juicy and flaky. You’ll appreciate the Lebanese variation with rosewater, orange blossom and pistachios. Also available are authentic maamoul – domed shortbread cookies filled with dates or walnuts.

And if the food weren’t enough, there’s friendly server Jill, who performs belly dance on Friday and Saturday nights.

Maha’s currently serves only non-alcoholic beverages, including Arabic mint tea and a bold Turkish coffee that had me buzzing before I reached the thick grounds at the bottom. A beer/wine license is in the works, which will help complete the festive mezze concept.

In the end, whether or not you appreciate the subtleties that distinguish Lebanese cuisine from its Middle Eastern counterparts, you’ll leave Maha’s knowing one thing for sure: Lebanese food is downright tasty.

MAHA’S LEBANESE CUISINE 470 Alvarado St., Monterey • 11am-9pm Mon-Sat, closed Sun. • 372-8999