Nice Blend: The signage is as lively as the smoothies at the Health and Diet Center, which include everything from carrot-orange to canteloupe shakes. Mark C. Anderson
Strip Search
Eating through Salinas’ Park Row, the first – and arguably most adorable – strip mall in the state.
Thursday, September 24, 2009
Pencil skirts, greased hair, monogrammed tops, Marilyn Monroe, plaid – some 1950s fixtures have come and gone. Others, like Park Row between Romie Lane and Acacia Street in Salinas, remain – and get better.
Some say Park Row, built between 1949 and 1950, was the first strip mall in California. Whether or not this is true, the humble strip mall seems to be a quintessentially California idea, perfectly acclimated to our pleasant year-round weather. And along with the run-down 1950s architecture and the Pepto-pink facade of the requisite Chinese restaurant, charm, nostalgia and good food options are packed into this retail row.
Lily Bogaard, owner of Park Row Barber Shop, an old-fashioned spot that still boasts straight razors and shaving cream, says many Salinas stores got their start on Park Row, including Packwood’s Fine Furniture, now on South Main Street. Government agencies like the Department of Motor Vehicles and the Highway Patrol office were also once situated here.
Today, the range of shops includes 10 restaurants, making it a can’t-miss, something-for-everybody lunch destination. Here, three favorites:
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I admit it. I couldn’t resist the Loose Caboose Sandwich Depot’s (934 Park Row, 422-7169) catchy name. This quirky joint is decked out with locomotive paraphernalia: Posters, postcards and railroad signs plaster every square inch of wall, and toy trains hang from the rafters. I was half expecting the servers to be decked out in overalls and engineer’s caps.
Current owner Jee Kim says the original owner of 20 years loved trains and the décor stuck even though the restaurant has changed hands twice since.
Speaking of engineer’s caps, a pastrami-on-swirl rye sandwich ($5.95) is named for this train-centric icon. Other themed sandwiches include Conductor’s Whistle (turkey, tomatoes, lettuce mayo on sourdough, $5.95) and the Boxcar (salami and American cheese on a French roll, $6.45). Their most popular sandwich is, of course, the eponymous Loose Caboose ($7.75). My freshly-made sourdough sandwich was piled high with layers of turkey, ham, avocado, Jack cheese, tomatoes, and lettuce – just big enough to satisfy a lunch appetite yet not induce a food coma.
If you’d like to mix it up, opt for the soup and half-sandwich combo ($5.25). The soups change daily; my cup of garden vegetable contained chunks of fresh zucchini, carrots and tomatoes in a savory broth with crackers.
Thankfully, my light lunch left enough room for a smoothie at the Health and Diet Center (962 Park Row, 422-9674), a retail/deli operation. In the retail section, you can browse not-often-found products like turbinado (raw cane) sugar, dong quai (an Asian medicinal root) and a host of vitamins.
Owner Mary Whitford says the local office crowd bypasses nearby fast food restaurants for her healthier lunch options like avocado and cucumber sandwiches, tofu burgers, ham and cheese, and tuna sandwiches ($5.75 to $6.95). I made a note to return for lunch.
Whitford, who has owned this store for 26 years, believes she’s the first to serve juices and smoothies in the area. The drinks are delicious, made with fresh fruits and vegetables and a natural fructose-based sweetener. Smoothies ($3.70 to $6.30) come in a wide variety of flavors ranging from peanut butter and chocolate to citrus to razzleberry and mango. My orange and pineapple shake ($3.90/16 ounces) was a refreshing blend of fruit and yogurt that made for a perfect afternoon pick-me-up.
My next stop was Royal Deli & Bakery (952 Park Row, 757-7930). Alex and Olga Castellanos are relative newcomers on the block, having owned the storefront occupied for decades by Betty’s Pies for barely three years.
A quick glance at the menu shows that sandwiches, salads and quiches are available, but the main attraction here is the buttery, made-from-scratch baked goods.
Alex worked for various European bakeries and restaurants on the Peninsula, including Pacific Grove’s Patisserie Bechler and Paris Bakery in Monterey, before striking out on his own. And the large glass showcase of pastries and cakes is a tempting testament to his 20-plus years of experience.
To my left, brownies, macaroons, croissants, danishes, and raspberry thumbprint cookies were on display. On my right, slices of cheesecake, tiramisu and opera cake beckoned, “Pick me. Pick me!” The best part? Nothing costs more than $2.50 a piece. Cake is available for $2 a slice – full cakes run $12 to $100 for delicious sheets serving up to 80.
My favorites were the Fraiser – moist sponge cake layered with light and fluffy mousseline, fresh strawberries, and marzipan – and the Opera, a treble clef stamped atop the smooth chocolate glaze with strata of espresso buttercream, chocolate ganache and almond joconde (an almost brittle sponge cake). Alex proudly declares his coconut macaroons some of the best in Monterey. As my teeth sank into the crunchy crust of the not-too sweet macaroon and reached the moist and chewy interior, I found myself agreeing with him.





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