The owners of the Noodle Bar Restaurant knew they had a good thing going after opening their first shoebox spot in Seaside a few years back – people routinely lined up for a sought-after spot at the donut-shop style bar for a bowl of steaming pho or vermicelli with barbecued pork and shrimp. With their recently opened sister spot in Marina, bearing the same name, they may have an even better thing going thanks to a lot more square footage and sleeker décor. Of course that is only helpful because the flavor and good value are still intact, as is the feeling of discovery that comes with locating its strip-mall spot.

The sweet Le family behind the two Noodles was wise enough not to funk with a formula – simple, fresh, authentic, affordable – that has worked so well. I followed their lead by revisiting a couple of my beloved faves, which I first experienced at the Seaside joint, for lunch.

Before the food arrived, though, I took a moment to appreciate the luxury of service at an actual table – there are 12 tables in all, as well as six-seat bar at the window facing the sidewalk – and the enhanced privacy and elbow room. While part of the unique experience at the Seaside Noodle Bar is its bar-stool ambience, it’s nice to have a little breathing room without several hungry patrons lurking behind you awaiting an opportunity to pounce on your seat while it’s still warm.

One of my all-time Noodle Bar musts: the hot spicy chicken wings ($5.50). The half-dozen wings are breaded and baked with red pepper flakes and draped with sweet caramelized onions that look like large shards of glass. The Vietnamese take on the ubiquitous American bar snack is all about texture and, though advertised as spicy, they’re fairly mild and shouldn’t faze sensitive tongues.

The fried banana egg roll may not be better than sex, but it definitely beats making out.

Next – though I usually opt for one of the 10 offerings of rice noodle soup like the rare beef and meatballs – I order up the dry noodle bowl with barbecued pork (regular $5.50; large $6.50.) A little piece of advice: the regular size bowl is plenty. It comes with a heaping serving of vermicelli rice noodles topped with lettuce, cilantro, mint and crunchy-fresh sprouts with a sprinkling of roasted peanuts. On the side comes a helping of the Noodle Bar’s proverbial house sauces – a warm and oily broth – ready to baptize your dish.

The whole symphony of warm noodles and meat along with the cool sprouts and lettuce is refreshingly hearty. And the house sauce offers an exclamation point to an already savory delight born of a simple mixture of seasonings: garlic, onion, ground pepper, salt, sugar, sweet soy sauce and chicken broth.

If swine’s not your style, I recommend the noodle bowl with barbecued five-spiced chicken; it’s a whirlwind of traditional Asian flavors accented by generous amounts of garlic.

On my next visit, I get one dish that lovingly employs that simple mixture of seasonings with panache: the barbecue pork chop ($7). Found under the “local favorites” section, this bone-in, lean chop – served with broccoli and fried or steamed rice – packs a mildly sweet and spicy punch. Some of the other dishes worth mentioning in the local favorites section – not available at the Seaside spot – include the battered jumbo shrimp ($9.50) with house sauce, steamed veggies and rice, and the shrimp stir-fry ($7) with mushrooms and snow peas over rice.

I order the vegetarian spring rolls ($5.50) to accompany my pork chop. They may be standard Vietnamese-style spring rolls but they are still done with precision that satisfies. The four translucent rice paper wraps are stuffed with tender vegetarian meat, tofu, caramelized onions, romaine lettuce and cilantro, and served with peanut dipping sauce.

Though the Noodle Bar offers six other vegetarian specials along with the rolls – including the eggplant special ($6.50) served with tofu and mushrooms – the menu notes that any of its meat dishes can be replaced with vegetarian meat upon request.

There’s only one dessert option. But that makes sense: There’s really no reason to clutter a menu with multiple half-ass choices when you’ve mastered something extraordinary like the fried banana egg roll ($2.50; $3.50 with ice cream).

Everyone likes to use the cliché “better than sex” with this treat. This deep-fried egg roll, pregnant with fresh bananas, cinnamon, sugar and coconut, may not be better than sex but it definitely beats making out.

Another upgrade from the menu at the Seaside Noodle Bar is the dozens of smoothies ($3) and the popular boba drinks, complete with ginormous straws equipped for sucking down those seemingly marble-sized tapioca balls. A beer and wine license is also in the works.

The final thing to keep in mind about the Marina Noodle Bar Restaurant is this: The seating may be triple what it is in Seaside, but since Noodle Bar cravings continue growing at an exponential rate – and the value and tastes remain consistently good – plan on waiting at least a little while for a place to sit, or get your food the way it’s served on the streets of Vietnam… on the go.

NOODLE BAR RESTAURANT 215 Suite E, Reservation Road, Marina • 11am-8pm Monday-Saturday. • 384-6225.