One of the most interesting items on the new Mucky Duck’s menu proved impossible to resist from the start: the fried pickles appetizer ($7.95). And yes, a couple of black-and-tan beers sounded just about right too. 


The light Harp beer bottom and creamy thick Guinness on the top was well executed, and the fried pickle novelty was more appetizing than we expected – crisp on the outside and moist on the inside – but it must be mentioned that diners need take care, as the inside of the watery pickle was very hot and could easily burn an unsuspecting mouth. 


Nevertheless, we decided it was the ultimate snack for a pickle lover. The metaphor the pickle presented for the wider restaurant, though, took a little more time to materialize.


Next my hungry pal ordered the Tavern Burger ($12.95), which boasted Hearst Castle grass-fed beef and caramelized onions. The burger beef was delicious and cooked medium as requested, but the tomato was underripe, even though it was summer, when local tomatoes are available every Tuesday at the farmers market right outside the bar. The burger bun was bready and generic, but the steaming hot traditional-cut steak fries were done just right. 


I ordered the fresh wild Alaskan salmon cakes ($12.95) off the appetizer menu. They were super salty, to the point of masking the taste of the salmon – not a good sign for how fresh the fish in the cake might be – but the creamy basil pesto was nice.


My second visit coincided with a Saturday beer fest. The Roadhouse Band was blaring; the patio was packed with saucy folks. One in particular passed out with her hand still around her beer glass. I took note that cigars are allowed on the patio, which may be sexy for some, but would not be my favorite scent with dinner. 


I sat and enjoyed my Tanqueray and tonic ($8.50); it was strong and delightful after a long work day. The full bar is complemented by 28 beers on tap that welcoming new owners Anthony and Alex Buich buttress with eight handles on the patio dedicated purely to rotating seasonal releases.


The adorable waitress dressed in some kind of lederhosen suggested the petrale sole ($15.95), a pan-seared flat fish served with lemon butter, rice and vegetables, and the lamb chops ($18.95) with accompanying garlic mashed potatoes and sautéed vegetables. She also mentioned that the skirt steak ($16.95) is a favorite. 


We went with her first suggestion and ordered the fish and lamb. The petrale, a flounder caught locally and featured on the approved Seafood Watch list, was light and delicate, the skin surprisingly good, and there were no bones to deal with, which was pleasant. The Duck gets bonus points for putting sustainable seafood on the menu and offering Monterey Bay Sea Salt on the table. The scoop of rice had some evidence of parsley, and the mixed vegetables were carrots and broccoli. The meal was simple, but good without being fancy, which is precisely what Anthony Buich says he’s shooting for. We agreed it would appeal to many walks of life due to the buttery flavor and lack of spice. 


The chop was cooked just right, thick yet tender and topped with a lovely mint chimichurri sauce. The accompanying potatoes were rich and delicious – lots of garlic and butter made for a good mash. The vegetables matched those in the fish dish, which again were simple and satisfying. The bummer: a large Styrofoam container was offered for leftovers. 


While the most noticeable shift at the Duck since the new owners appears on the menu – including other dishes like the dalmatian fritters ($4.95), sand dabs de-boned tableside ($12.95) and the Hangtown Fry (an omelet of fried oysters and bacon named after the dish men sentenced to death in Placerville would request because the ingredients took a while to procure, $11.95) – there are other upgrades in place. 


The bathrooms might be the most significant among them (out went the raunchy stink hole, in came the clean makeover and low-flow fixtures), but they are also doing much more dynamic live music and special events. Jake Nielsen and Triple Threat bring their feisty American blues and Derrick Martin’s wild drum solos through every week. This past Wednesday (Oct. 26), the Duck team partnered with Sierra Nevada on a five-course pairing with treats like roasted beets, wild mushroom-cornish game hen risotto, poached sea bass, braised pork shank, Nuttela-stuffed strukli and limited release Sierras than ran just $35.


The Mucky Duck remains a large, centrally located bar and patio where a lot of friends can gather for classic bar food that would satisfy most, with fewer knuckleheads than before. But there is still some of that, which means the Duck is a little like that fried pickle: If you’re not warned, it can burn you, not with boiling pickle juice, but boozy crowds, unripe produce and Styrofoam containers. But it’s significantly more stylish, fun and tasty than before. 


THE MUCKY DUCK 479 Alvarado St., Monterey. • 11:30-1am daily, Sun opens 10am • 655-3031, www.muckyduck.com