Greek is good. 


Not only has Greece given us the first working version of civilization, pillared architecture and modern democracy, but grub with historic impact. One can thank Alexander the Great for this cuisine’s originality: When he expanded the empire from Europe to India about 326 B.C., the resulting fare drew inspiration from east and west in unprecedented ways. It was even a Greek, Archestratus, who wrote one of the earliest cookbooks. More than hummus and gyros happening here.


Greek has certainly been good to the Nimri brothers. A reservation at Faisal’s Dametra Cafe is one of the toughest to secure in Carmel, and Faris’ International Cuisine in Pacific Grove has been serving very loyal customers for more than 14 years. The brothers helped encourage youngest brother Fadi to get in the business as well, beginning with Sakana Sushi in Monterey, which lasted little more than a year. 


“I am a sushi chef,” he says, “but Mediterranean is more of my specialty.” He put Sakana up for sale and headed for Carmel Valley. 


Fadi transformed the Mid-Valley property from short-lived past tenant Down Under Deli into Athena’s Cafe. He collaborated with his other brothers on the menu, though Fadi mentions with pride this restaurant is very much his own. 


“We are brothers and we know how to run each other’s restaurants if needed,” he says, “but right now, I’m doing my own thing.” 


On my first visit, I immediately noticed the joint’s textured rustic gold walls painted with scattered grapes and vines. Bronze tablecloths cloak the seating beneath faux grapes and lights draped from the windows. The word cafe downplays the fact that it is a sit-down restaurant with waiters, another difference from the previous tenant. From start to finish, our waiter felt more like an old friend, talking travel, food and language. We were a little overwhelmed at a menu that ranged from dishes like falafel, gyros and baklava to a sprinkle of European plates like Italian bruschetta, lasagna and Spanish paella, so his guidance was helpful. We agreed to order two of his favorite entrees, the rosemary chicken kebab ($13.95) and the lamb osso bucco ($17.95), which each include Greek salad and saffron rice. 


The osso bucco sauce – a combination of red wine and tomatoes, with dominant kicks from cinnamon and clove – smothered a tender shank and slices of carrots, celery, and onion. Although the lamb easily fell off the bone, I probably won’t order this again. I wanted more vegetables to balance the sauce, which was a little too much. 


The kebab, on the other hand, I could eat everyday. The velvety chicken was generously seasoned with mixed herbs and spices, and could have lemon in its name too. Threaded onto a stick, it harmonized with the lemon – and feta-enhanced Greek salad and saffron rice, a mellow side that went well with the strong flavors of the lamb and chicken. The first visit left me feeling like a Grecian queen right up to when our waiter held open the door and waved farewell. 


The second visit, however, made me feel like one of the gods. Our interchanging servers seated us with smiles, and when we asked if we could get some sliced cucumbers along with our appetizers of hummus ($6.50) and baba ghanoush ($6.50), our waiter replied, “We can do anything you like here.” The hummus had a good balance between citrus, tahini and olive oil, but it was the baba ghanoush that made our table fall in love with Aphrodite intensity. The earthy yet creamy combination of the tahini and eggplant had a bigger kick than its hummus brethren and paired nicely with the accompanying toasted pita bread that Athena’s – like Dametra and International Cuisine – buys half-baked from Kronos Foods, Inc., a Greek specialty purveyor. 


My Greek-food-obsessed friend mentioned that our next appetizer, dolmas ($6.50), can come unnecessarily soaked in olive oil if not prepared correctly. This rendition, however, was far from soggy, and its tender grape leaves and herb rice felt like pillows in my mouth. Its yogurt-based tzatziki dipping sauce had an addictive sting from its thick chunks of garlic and enhanced the dolmas quite a bit. 


Our waiter-recommended cioppino ($22.95) entree also entranced: The tomato-based stew had slivers of onion and diced tomatoes blended with hints of rosemary, garlic, parsley, pepper and olive oil. Since there were no mussels in stock that day, our waiter promised us an extra amount of prawns, which overflowed the bowl alongside delicate pieces of salmon. The accompanying ciabatta bread was heaven sent for dipping. The only real downer: Fadi says he is unaware of the Aquarium’s Seafood Watch list. 


Each of us received a handshake out the door. I felt inspired to thank Kairos, the Greek god of favorable moments, for a wonderful evening – and leftovers. With such large portions, I took most of the food home, where I happily devoured them the next day and unhappily threw out the Styrofoam packaging. 


In Carmel and Pacific Grove, the Nimri brothers have done a time-honored job of providing service that makes you feel like family, and Fadi’s Carmel Valley addition is no exception. The food, meanwhile, gives folks beyond the mouth of the valley a previously unavailable international option. He is even planning to expand, creating a bar, doing deliveries and catering. If Greece’s role in world and history is any indication, Athena’s is here to stay, which is, in a word, good. 


ATHENA’S CAFE 315 Mid Valley Center, Carmel Valley • 11am-9pm Mon-Sun • 624-3056, www.athenascafe.com