More CFS 2011: Chris Cosentino on Bloggers (Hates 'Em) and Marinated Sardines (Loves 'Em)
May 26, 2011
The other day in a meeting Weekly Editor Mary Duan seemed shocked that I noticed a colleague purportedly known for his fashion had rocked the same scarf two days in a row. I shrugged: I thought that involuntary observant itch was part of what qualified us for this gig.
Turns out—shocker—Duan is as observant as they come. Here's a blip about a particular bit of surprising fashion she observed just the other day, followed by an impressive recipe:
Sustainability nut and offal master Chris Cosentino, chef at San Francisco's paean to all things seemingly inedible, Incanto (415-641-4500), hung out in the back row at last Friday afternoon's Sustainable Food Institute lectures, listening to ever-stunning (and stunningly charming) Isabella Rossellini talk about her animal sexuality cable show Green Porno, and Food Network's Alton Brown talk about losing half his body weight. And when Cosentino stood up, the audience (well, those who were paying attention) got an eyeful of a T-shirt he received from an unusual source.
The front of the shirt, in the font of N.Y.-based blog Eater, reads "Hater." And on the back, "Bloggers ride the short bus."
Fellow star chef Tom Colicchio, no fan of blogs it seems, gave Cosentino the shirt at this year's Pebble Beach Food & Wine.
Cosentino, meanwhile, gave the folks attending Friday's gala tasting a beautiful recipe for maybe the most sustainable of lower-food-chain tastes, the sardine. (For more on his use of every part of the animal, check out the revolutionary Offal Good website.)
Chris Cosentino's Marinated Sardines and Nduja Crostini
8 fresh local sardines Kosher salt Dry white wine Lemon juice Chile flakes 5 bay leaves 1 bunch thyme 1 bunch parsley Extra virgin olive oil 1 lemon Nduja, ½ chub, about 4 oz. Wild fennel fronds 2 heads baby fennel, shaved thin lengthwise on mandoline 1 bunch French breakfast radishes, shaved thin lengthwise on mandoline Salt, to taste Black pepper, to taste 1 crusty baguette
To marinate sardines Fillet sardines or ask the fishmonger to do it. Arrange a single layer of sardines in bottom of nonreactive pan. Sprinkle with salt, lemon juice, chile flakes, parsley stems, thyme and bay leaves. Cover with ¼ cup wine. Repeat process with each layer. Finish with extra virgin olive oil to cover. Make sure all sardines are completely submerged. Cover container and let marinate at leas 24 hours in refrigerator.
To prepare and serve Remove sardines from marinade and let sardines come to room temperature. Discard marinade. Remove nduja from refrigerator and let it come to room temperature.
Place radishes and fennel in small bowl with fennel fronds and season with salt and pepper and a splash of lemon juice.
Slice bread on bias into ¼-inch thick crostini. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill crostini over medium heat or toast in toaster oven, being careful not to burn them.
Once grilled, lay crostini on tray and rub each piece with the whole lemon. Scoop nduja out of casket and spread an even layer on each crostino. Lay a fillet of marinated sardine on each crostino. Top with small amount of radish and fennel mixture. Finish with extra virgin olive oil and cracked black pepper.