Taste 06.27.19

Denis Boaro >> Gusto Pizzeria & Pasta

It’s pretty basic, really – just meat, sauce, cheese and a whopping mound of arugula tossed on a crusty flatbread. But the combination in Gusto’s bresaola pizza can easily leave you spellbound.

There’s a trick to it, sure. Owner Denis Boaro’s kitchen sets you up with bresaola and its hallowed – and quite potent – salty funk. However, San Marzano tomato dabbled with herbs provides a delicate, fruity background for slivers of the air-cured beef, with its raspy bite sinking into the sauce and its grassy tang favoring the faintly bitter hiss of the arugula blades (some apparently so fresh, yellow flowers were sprouting). A trace of citrus in the greens blends into the tomato, drawing your attention back to that layer.

Another sleight of hand from the kitchen is the addition of brie, which weaves a rich and nutty twang that complements the mellow, malty crust. Just a few acrid pops charred into the dough by the grill cause distraction. Yet even these indulge the untamed savor of the ruddy meat.

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So it becomes something magical, shuffling familiar flavors to achieve an unexpected – but entirely captivating – finish.

GUSTO PIZZERIA & PASTA, 1901 Fremont Blvd., Seaside. 899-5825, gustopizzeriapasta.com

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