Taste 08.22.19

Max Muramatsu >> Max’s Grill

While duck does not feature on many restaurant menus around Monterey County, the combination of a confit with potatoes and vegetables is hardly extraordinary either.

But this is duck the way chef Max Muramatsu wants it done – duck his way means duck two ways. So in the thin spread of orange sauce coloring the plate are two ravioli, each filled with duck mousse.

Now, the confit is worth discussion – husky and pastoral, with a dense gaminess. The sensation of tilled earth and rugged stone after a summer rain that rises from the creamy pillow of pasta is something to behold. It brings conversation to a standstill as you bask in the luxurious combination contending with a bright, zesty, yet also buttery-rich citrus dressing.

Though born in Tokyo, Muramatsu received classical French training, served as chef at award-winning restaurants overseas and guided the kitchen at Anton & Michel in Carmel before opening his own place. The ravioli brings a bit of elegance to what is otherwise a rustic presentation of duck confit and golden potatoes. That’s the way the chef likes it, and that’s a good thing.

MAX’S GRILL 209 Forest Ave., Pacific Grove. 375-7997, maxgrill.com

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