Taste 10.03.19

There are so many doughnuts to choose from. Cakes draped in chocolate are everywhere. So are maple and bacon versions, or tres leches—and even these seem commonplace next to dolled-up flavors like pineapple-basil.

You would think the simple glazed doughnut would be forgotten. Yet surveys consistently rank plain raised dough with a coating of sugar as one of America’s most popular choices.

The glazed doughnut at Monterey Donuts (po-tay-to, po-tah-to) is so delicate it could be immaterial but for a buttery, nutty essence it leaves behind, wrapped in a comforting sweetness with a hint of vanilla. There’s no need to go overboard, no need even for a rainbow of sprinkles—just some active yeast and a little patience, as well as a deft touch when preparing the glaze itself.

These are doughnuts unveiled. Icing, jelly, bacon and other accoutrements can disguise little flaws. Glazed doughnuts can’t hide.

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It’s possible, of course, that Monterey Donuts glazed treats could be better. The shop opens at 5am most days. This particular sample had been sitting around for a few hours.

They held up very well indeed.

MONTEREY DONUTS, 2440 Fremont St. #203, Monterey. 333-0281

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