Taste 09.06.18

Napoli Pizza

A literary exchange seems pertinent here. After Humpty Dumpty scolds Alice, telling her a word “means just what I choose it to mean,” she questions whether one should ad-lib with language. “The question is,” Humpty responds, “which is to be master – that’s all.”

Now, we know what the Associazione Pizzaioli Napoletani would say. Neapolitan pies must follow rigid rules governing flour, temperature, time and so on. But Michael Foley at Heirloom Pizza Co. found a clever dodge. There’s not much Neapolitan about his thin crust “Napoli” pizza.

Yep – Napoli, a pie dressed with prosciutto and pepperoni under a mound of pepperoncini, slivered and toasted until a crisp sheen develops. While the two meats volley, the pale green pepper flowers into something bright and meadowy. But this is a distraction, catching your attention to allow embers of heat to creep up and get in close without scaring off the other flavors. It becomes a choreographed melee between notes scaled from sweet to earthy and hot, played out on a crust that is crisp, without the visible wood-flame wounds of a Neapolitan.

But after all, this is a Napoli.

HEIRLOOM PIZZA CO. 700 Cass St., Monterey. 717-4363, heirloompizzapie.com

Recommended for you

(0) comments

Welcome to the discussion.

Keep it Clean. Please avoid obscene, vulgar, lewd, racist or sexually-oriented language.
PLEASE TURN OFF YOUR CAPS LOCK.
Don't Threaten. Threats of harming another person will not be tolerated.
Be Truthful. Don't knowingly lie about anyone or anything.
Be Nice. No racism, sexism or any sort of -ism that is degrading to another person.
Be Proactive. Use the 'Report' link on each comment to let us know of abusive posts.
Share with Us. We'd love to hear eyewitness accounts, the history behind an article.