Taste 11.28.19

Taste of India

Two weeks. That’s how long Taste of India has been serving guests – a mere blip in which lumps usually get taken and wrinkles show. But if the restaurant’s lamb samosas are any indication, the kitchen is easing smoothly through its start.

The golden shell has a mellow, nutty character with a faint sweetness that supports the filling with a warm and comfortable tinge. But there’s something more, and it’s in the way the crust crackles without splintering, feels thin but at the same time cushy. It’s so rarified you could wander into verse and leave no room for a sonnet on the minced meat within.

Taste of India’s chefs, Kamaljeet Singh and one who just goes by the singular Uttam, will not reveal the spices they blend into the lamb mixture (other than “a lot – it’s India”), but they contribute an earthy, toasty streak within which layers of smoky heat and rustic twangs rise, fall and sometimes break through to the surface. Yet the seasoning plays as a reserve, supporting the burly savor of the lamb as well as the gentle earthiness of the dough.

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These are the touches you expect from a veteran restaurant. Taste of India has achieved it in just two weeks.

TASTE OF INDIA, 1180 Forest Ave. #A, Pacific Grove. 641-7493.

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